Saturday, January 14, 2012

Arresting imagery

Friday February 25, 2011


Past and present convergence....


There was an image in my mind, something I had seen many times but had not been able to capture.  A common theme in Viet Nam... the blending of the past and the present.

If you want to see something, go to the street...   everything that is, has been on the street in one form or another. Like the blood vessels that carry all of the elements that build our bodies the streets carry the elements that build a city.  So this is where I went to set the stage for the image that I was to build.



The shoot...


In the pursute of this I enlisted the help of a young man named Mẫn (I've tried to figure out how to explain how to pronounce Mẫn's name but the truth is I can't say it right myself and I've had half a dozen people try to help me to learn it with no success)  We scouted various locations, talked about concept and in the end Mẫn thought it would be best to stage the shoot in his home town of Vinh Long rather than Saigon so as to avoid any entanglements with the authorities who might take exception to what we had planned what with blocking traffic and all.  I deferred to his judgment and we planned a date to meet.  Vinh Long is one of the larger cities in the Mekong Delta and since I was planning to be in the area to shoot the floating market anyway it didn't seem like much a stretch to do the shoot there.

On the appointed day, we met, collected our props, enlisted our model and made our way to one of the main boulevards in town to do the shoot.  Everything went well,  the light was good, our model performed on cue and generally I was very happy.  A bit more about the model;  this women was an incredible sport about the whole thing.  She did everything we asked her to do without complaint and at some potential danger (though not as much as it would appear).  She was fearless and in the end had fun doing it.
With evening upon us I sent our model home and Mẫn, his wife, and Kim (my friend) and I packed up and we went to dinner.  We enjoyed a sunset dinner by the MeKong river and viewed the images from the day... all was well.



Slow, Flat and detained...


On the way back to Mẫn's house, where we would be staying that night, my bike started running rather rough and my speed was reduced to about ten mph.  To make matters worse, Mẫn's bike got a flat.  So, we limped our way to one of the many flat repair shops along the road and got Mẫn's tire fixed and then it was off to another shop to have a look at my bike.  As it turned out that shop was on the same intersection that we had done the shoot several hours earlier.
As soon as we pulled into the parking lot we were approached by two green uniformed police officers who detained us at the shop but wouldn't tell us why.  I was feeling rather defiant at the time and I assumed that we were being shook down for a bribe and frankly I was in no mood. As it turned out, that was not the case and after a few minutes a few more offers showed up, and then a few more and then a few more.  This went of for quite some time until there where about twenty of these guys all just standing around making sure we didn't go anywhere until there boss arrived.  There was also quite a crowd from the neighborhood developing. There must have been about fifty to seventy five people standing around wondering what was going on..  About a half hour later there boss shows up, dressed in tan slacks and a white shirt, he is obviously in charge and not happy to be there.  He demands that we go back to the station. And I in a typically American fashion refused and demanded to know why we were being harassed.  In retrospect, inciting a stand off with twenty or so police was probably not the best thing to do, but at the time it seemed better to be in a place with a lot of witnesses and I knew once we were at the police station we would be isolated at an ever increasing disadvantage.  In the end it was Mẫn who persuaded me to go along, so we went.



Suspicion of conspiracy...


Once at the station, which as it turns out was only about a block away, we were separated and the others in our party where rather energetically interrogated.  Know one was talking to me because I refused to talk to anyone until an interpreter was provided. (this gave me the opportunity to text my brother Andrew and let him know what was going on. He contacted the US embassy and in turn the embassy called me, so I was confident that we wouldn't just fall off the radar).  On the way over Mẫn made it clear to Kim who passed the information on to me that under no circumstances where we to admit to any particular  association with each other and for this reason Kim refused to interpret on my behalf.  As it was going, know one was admitting to anything.  Mẫn's wife, who was 7 months pregnant, was playing the "I don't know what's going on card",teary eyed and can't you see the condition I'm in..., Mẫn was "cool as could be" complete with a barley perceptible wry smile... totally in control and confident that nothing would come of any of it.  Kim, on the other hand, went "totally ballistic".  I wasn't sure who was interrogating who.  After only a few minutes the poor guy had to be traded out for a more experienced officer who still made no headway with her.
About two hours into this interrogation odyssey it was my turn. Two interpreters showed up and I was able to start getting some clarification as to what was going on. Also, the bosses boss showed up to take control of the situation.  He was of a different caliber than the others; smart, educated, reasoned and he spoke english very well.



Much ado...

Clearly this situation had gotten out of control... it was just so much ado about nothing, but the more ado that was made the more of something had to be made of it.  By this point, there were about thirty green uniformed officers milling around, there boss, and his boss.  We were hours into this and something was going to have to come of it to justify all the trouble. On the other hand, upon review of the images in the camera it was clear that there really wasn't a bigger conspiracy at work. But what to do?

They had to do something, but since we had't actually broken any laws there wasn't anything to jail us over or even a reason to levy a fine (not that having a reason has ever stopped them before). They knew, or at least the big boss seemed to know, that if they over reacted that the whole thing could blow up in there face. (Fortunately the US embassy had called during our conversation--Thank you Andrew!) So what to do...  I saw an opportunity and decided to seize upon it.  I offered to erase the images from the CS card in the camera in exchange for them dropping the whole thing and letting us go. And in a show of good faith, and to there astonishment, I formatted the card before they could stop me. (ok, so it wasn't good faith, I figured the less evidence the better) OK, so done deal right.... no. There was much heated discussion for a few moments. The middle boss was very angry about the who thing, he wanted something else... the big boss came back with-- but you can recover the images even after formatting (rats... he on to me.) So I said, OK OK... you can have the card, but only if you promise to let us all go and be done with it. Then he says, How do I know you didn't down load the images to a computer?  (OK so now he's really on to me and riffling through my computer just isn't part of the option package I'm willing to put up, especially since the images where on my computer).



And in the category of best actor... (Distract and redirect)

I was in a tight spot... on the one hand up to this point know one had done anything that was punishable. On the other hand he was going down a road that would put my computer in his hands and would likely lead to the entire archive being wiped and or me having to defend every shoot that I had done to that point. Not to mention that the Old women shoot was on my computer.  So, I took a risk and said that I hadn't had time to down load the images... and then I immediately launched into a surprisingly out of character song and dance (so to speak) of outrage and indignation, I stood up raised my voice, waved my arms and demand to see a lawyer and my consulate!!!  After all That I Have Done for You...  You Treat Me Like This... I'm Not Putting Up the This....Arrest Me or Let Me Go.... I Haven't Broken Any Laws .....     it was shocking, even to me.  And it got me what I needed, enough distraction to allow me to redirect there or his attention back to the CS card that I had already offered.   The last thing anyone wanted was to have this thing which wasn't a thing turn into a thing, so I got the subject back to the card.  They would keep the card and we would go and that was that. It worked. There was  a little more drama concerning me signing a receipt of the card but I conceded and we all walked out of door with a good story to tell.
In the end, after thoroughly wiping the card they did mail the card back to me...bonus!

Arrest worthy???  Hardly, but it made for a good story.

Thursday, January 5, 2012

New Years in Siagon



January 1,2012

I was a bit off my game this NYs. I hate to make excuses, but I caught a cold back in Pleiku and I thought if I was careful I could out run it.  Unfortunately I was wrong.  It's not really the cold that got me in the end, it was the Bronchitis that followed.  So, I've been staying close to the hotel room and taking it easy this whole week.  Which is why I had time to work on getting this blog set up.
NYs wasn't a total loss,  Nick invited me out to a very nice dinner and though I was moving a little slower than usual I did have a nice time.  The fact is, by the end of the evening I knew I was in for it.  You know that feeling when the energy level just drops out from under you and you don't want to do anything but just lay down? Well I was trying to be graceful about it, but at one point even Nick said I didn't look so good. (well, not that that was ever in any real doubt)

Traffic was so gridlocked that I had to walk to the party.


I got a couple of shots on the way.


 Dinner was very french.



Nick and his wife Bao are on the far right.
 Hanging out after dinner.


Wednesday, January 4, 2012

On assignment is Battam Bang...

12/26/11
I flew from Pleiku to Saigon then got a taxi to the bus station, met with Nick and started the 5 hr ride to Phnom Penh Cambodia. Once in PP we met up with a friend of Nicks who runs one of the local expat rags and hung out with him for the evening. 
The next day we boarded another bus and made the 6 hr trip to Battom Bang.  BB is the third largest city in Cambodia.   Once the capital of the Khmer Kingdom this sleepy town is quiet, relatively untouristed and easily accessible to travelers.  
I felt fortunate to be able to return to Cambodia so soon, and even more fortunate because I was able to get Sophera to agree to meet us in BB and help out with the logistics and interpretation.
Here are a few images from the project:
The proverbial market.  Every town has one.

Mmmm.....Chicken.


Local Street Vendor


Park Maintenance


Colonial Architecture




Night street scene.


Impressions of the River


School girl crossing over the river on a covered bridge.


The Bamboo train.




Brick oven interior

Nick works the angles

Buddha
Perspective
Temple View


Monk


Ancient Temple




Millions of Fruit Batts come out of a cave each night






In the end the project went well, we made the trip back from BB to PP and PP to Saigon in time for New years Eve.
Next time... New years in Saigon.

Pleiku and Coffee...

12//11
After a long day of recovery I met up with Hong Anh, a friend from Pleiku (Central Highlands).  She had some business that she was attending to in Saigon and during her off hours we hung out.  She invited me to go to her home town when she returned so I went back with her and had a very nice couple of days there.  While in Pleiku Anh was able to arrange for me to shoot at a coffee plantation which was great luck since the harvest was at it's end.  She convinced this one plantation to hold off harvesting the last few plants until we got there.  Literally we drove past hundreds of thousands of plants with not a berry of them until we came to three plants that were loaded with berries.  There was a small group of about 10 people just standing around waiting for us to get there so they could finish the harvest.   




Do you remember those ads for Columbian Coffee featuring JuanValdez with his burro meandering through the fields "picking only the ripe berries at there peak"?...  Well I can tell you, that is not the way it works around here. They wait for the entire plant to be ripe and then they attack it with such intensity that it's more like watching the cartoon virsion of a tazmanian devil.  There is nothing slow about what these pickers do. Berries were flying off these plants.  It was everything I could do to get them to slow down enough for me to make sense out of the photography.  Even at that, they had cleared the last remaining coffee from the plants in such sort order I didn't really feel like I had gotten the shots that I was looking for.  Oh well... there's always next year.


Christmas was nice, I was invited to have dinner at Anhs' house.
After just a few short days it was time to go back to Saigon and catch the bus for Cambodia. 

Back to the "big city" of Saigon.

12/20/11   
OK, so I digress a bit...The flight from Siem Reap was nondescript enough, but getting on the airplane wasn't.  Still in Siem Reap we had said our goodbyes and I headed off to check in only to find that I wasn't on the flight.  There was a mixup with the ticket so I couldn't get on the flight... so I called Sophera and headed back out to the drop off area and Sophera and crew took me back into town for one more night in SR. This was serendipitous since I really needed a little more time to wrap up some loose ends. The next day I easily made the flight and was off to the next chapter.


So, Back in Saigon I made my way to the Moto rental shop that I have become accustom to using while in Saigon. The woman pictured here remembered me and was happy to give me the long term rental discount as though I had never left from the last time I was here.  I even got the same bike as last time which is great because it's just generic and beat up enough to not attract attention while at the same time being very reliable.


I then made my way to a hotel I had stayed in the last time I was here only to find that it was now a tattoo parlor.  Hmmm.... So I asked if they still had rooms for rent and yes they did. I got settled in, hung out for a while, walking the strip and waited for Nick to call.  
Nick is the editor of the Word Magazine, a Viet/english Mag that he runs with his Viet wife Bao.  I had met them the last time I was here at a little spot in an alley way where he and his wife have Pho and Coffee each day (some of the best food in VN can be found in the most humble of places). 




An inter view of sorts...
After a while Nick called and I met him at a little local bar close to my hotel.  Over a beer we had some pleasant conversation, catching up on the last eight months and talking about what was happening in our respective worlds.  As soon as our glasses were empty he invited me to join him and a small group of colleagues at another bar just down the street. So, we got on our scooters and headed off to the next spot. Once there, more drinks were had and much more conversation about publishing, media and related topics. Photos were shown around (some of mine, some of Nicks and some of other photographers who work for the magazine), we talked about what we liked and there was a lot of talk about methodology and approach to communication through imagery and that sort of thing... yada yada yada...  it was all rather relaxed and organic.  Then it was on to the next place, an up scale place down town (very swanky) where we met up with Nicks wife Bao who had monopolized the entire end of the bar and was having drinks made for us from bottles that sat on the bar in front of her rather than the stuff from behind the bar. Each place we went to was more upscale from the last, this place would have been right at home in NYC or any other big city in the world.  OK so things start to get a little fuzzy at this point...it was pretty loud and the conversation was definitely more general though still media related. Suffice to say a good time was had by all.  I do remember somewhere in there Nick asking me if I would like to go with him to Cambodia to shoot photos for a story he was going to write, oh and something about helicopters... , and being propositioned by a couple of very attractive women who wanted to...well... I did decline.    After the club I followed Nick who guided me back to my hotel and I called it a night.  The next day(worst hangover ever) I got a call from Nick wanting to know if I really wanted to do the shoot in Cambodia and we made plans to go that following week.  What a hoot!!!

Finding the right shots.

 12/10/11
I'm going to condense the week here because O M G !!!...., I could not have guessed this week would have been so amazing.
Sophera, my driver, was great.  He showed up the next day with his cousin driving the tuk tuk so that he could sit with me and help with what ever was needed.
We did everything I hoped for and more. We drank beer, we ate, took photos, we danced, we sang (OK they sang), we ate, we drank lots of beer...did I say a lot of beer...let's just say the Cambodians like there beer and leave it at that because to say anything else would be rather incriminating...

I even got to drive the tuk tuk, how cool is that.


One of the best aspects of the week was the incredible amount of time I spent with the local population, not a tourist in sight.

  The Cambodians are a truly wonderful people once you get past the tourist traps and the hysteria that surounds the USD that all tourists carry.